What’s
Bugging You?
Spring
has sprung, the grass is riz! What an exciting time of year! Just the sight of
the first daffodil, bright forsythia, camellia and flowering quince makes the
winter worthwhile (almost!). The birdies are chirping again and everything
green wants to wake up and break dormancy. Unfortunately, the pesky pests,
critters, diseases and general icky things are also waking up and hatching now.
One can almost hear the familiar cry, “Oh no, what’s eating my plants now?”
Fear not! A trip to your garden pharmacy, some advice from the plant doctor,
and a good dose of garden TLC as preventative may be all you need.
First
things first, an accurate diagnosis of what’s bugging your plants must be made.
Is it fuzzy or furry, buggy or grubby, moldy or mildewy, or multiple garden
terrorism? If you spray or spread the wrong chemical remedy, you may be doing
more harm than good. Of course if one day your plant is healthy, then missing
or chewed to a nub the next, you can probably assume the deer or bunnies have
found it. There are a variety of repellents on the market, which all work
fairly well. Just remember to switch products occasionally or the rascally
varmints will get used to the scent eventually.
Ragged,
chewed-looking leaf edges, holes in leaves or a stippled, pinhole effect on
leaves usually indicates insect damage. Examine your plant closely, especially
the undersides of leaves (a magnifying glass helps for the tiny pests). The
bigger bugs such as beetles, slugs or caterpillars you may handpick and plop
into a bucket of soapy water if you’re not too squeamish. Caterpillar and
cabbage looper problems respond well to a dusting of a biological control, BT
(Bacillus thuringiensis), which is a bacterial parasite that disrupts the
insect’s digestive tract and kills them. Consequently, if another animal feeds
on them, it will not be harmed. The pinhead-sized lacebugs, which are very
common on azaleas, and spider mites, as well as ugly aphids (which can be
green, black or yellow) will suck the life right out of your plant and can be
taken care of with horticultural oil, insecticidal soap or neem-oil. These are
made with oils and fatty acids from plants and are usually safer for the
environment and work great. Make sure you spray on the undersides of leaves, as
this is where a lot of pests and their eggs live. If your infestation is severe
you may need to resort to a stronger chemical or dust.
Black
or rust-colored spots, wilt or powdery mildew can be taken care of with
fungicide. Fungal diseases will manifest worse in hotter, humid weather or
rainier years, as anyone who has grown tea roses can attest. Lime sulfur and a
dormant oil spray are good preventatives if you use them in January or
February. In later months, copper soap or sulfur, is a good choice, as are some
of the triple-action products containing fungicide, insecticide and miticide,
if you are having multiple pest issues. I recommend proactively applying fine
horticultural oil (which can also be mixed with some chemicals if needed) three
or four times a year. The oil will smother mold spores, insects and their eggs,
acts as an anti-transpirant for moisture loss and works great for ornamentals,
fruit trees, as well as houseplants.
When
using any chemical, wear a mask or bandanna to avoid breathing dust or fumes
and spray on a windless day. Always follow instructions on the container
pertaining to rate of application, exact measurements (NEVER make stronger than
recommended), and disposal and storage of the bottle. Keep out of the reach of children and pets,
of course. Remember, any product ending in –cide WILL kill beneficial
insects and creatures also, so make sure this is a bad bug you want to kill.
For example, many folks have sprayed their parsley or fennel because
caterpillars were all over them, only to find out that they were butterfly
larvae they could have spared. Do not be under the assumption that an “organic”
insect control made from plants, such as pyrethrin or rotenone, is any safer
for your garden, kids or pets than other chemical controls! These products do
not know the difference between good or bad bugs either. Make sure to use
products specific to your pest problem and don’t over-do it. Some products,
such as carbaryl (Sevin), can be safer and less poisonous to your family
and pets than some chemicals made from a poisonous plant such as rotenone.
When
in doubt about what’s attacking your garden, make a cutting and place in a
baggie. Bring this to a plant professional for a proper diagnosis and more
specific recommendations for the proper treatments. Healthy plants are much
like healthy humans, keep them well-watered and fed, trimmed and clean, give
them their vitamins, and they will be more resistant to illnesses and pests.
Bugs sometimes will gravitate more toward poor health, so use this as an
indication that your plants may need extra attention. I have found that your
garden will return to a more natural, healthy balance if you do not panic and
spray chemicals at the first sign of damage. You will find that your garden can
stay healthy on its own and the good “bugs” will take care of the bad ones, if
you can live with a few imperfections once in a while. Plant a few beneficial
insect-friendly host plants in your garden or on the edge of your property,
which some people consider to be native “weeds,” to attract predator insects
(the good guys), as well as butterflies. Gardens and lawns should not be
sterile, plastic-perfect environments.
Good
luck and happy spring! I hope the only thing that’s bugging you this
year is what to do with all that extra zucchini you grew!
Dawn
Leith
Durham
Garden Center