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4536 Hillsborough Rd., Durham, NC 27705   919-384-7526

Seed Starting

Seed Starting Made Easy

Cabin fever got you down yet?  The bears aren’t the only ones hibernating now; our garden is taking a well-deserved nap as well.  Too bad the deer aren’t, you are probably thinking, as you are watching them make a buffet out of your pansies!

 

Fortunately, this time of year is when we receive our plant and seed catalogs.  It’s always fun to leaf through the colorful pages and daydream of your garden-to-be (and practice pronouncing the names of those plants you have never heard of!).  Have you ever wanted to try a new and funky variety of plant or vegetable, but end up planting the ol’ tried and true?  Consider starting your own plants from seed.  Seed starting takes a minimum of expense and effort, and will give you the gratification of knowing that tasty tomato or gorgeous flower was raised by you!

 

First, you will need to determine which plant varieties will need to be germinated inside and transplanted later into the garden, and which can be sown directly in the ground after frost has passed.  Quite a few varieties of vegetables, herbs and flowers grow so fast and easy that there is no need to start them early inside.  Some of them lend themselves to multiple sowings in our fair climate for continuous bloom and flower production till next frost!  Just always remember to wait to sow until the soil is warm in late spring, or the soil will be too wet and cold for proper germination.  After seeds sprout, thin the seedlings as recommended on the seed packets to give your plants elbowroom to grow.  This will result in healthier, stockier plants.  Cut them with scissors or clippers, as pulling them will disturb the roots of the plants beside them.

 

If you are going to start seed inside, check the recommendation for weeks to transplant and days to maturity to determine when they should be started.  So, where to begin?  Start by using clean plastic seed starting trays, cell packs or peat pots filled with new, sterile soilless potting mix.  Never use garden soil or old potting soil, as this is too heavy and/or may contain bacteria or pesky critters that can kill your new seedlings.  Sow to the depth recommended.  If your seeds are tiny, mix them with fine sand and sprinkle across the top of the soil.

 

The next step is to remember to keep your flats evenly moist (not soggy) and warm.  Water your plants from the bottom by setting in a tray of tepid water.  Do not let them sit in water for more than an hour or so, then let them drain.  Watering from the top can wash the soil away from the seed or the roots of new sprouts, as well as puddling and causing damping-off fungus.  To maintain humidity level, set them on a tray of clean pebbles partially filled with water, or simply cover with clear plastic.  Do not completely seal; air circulation will prevent mold.

 

If you have a couple of containers and do not want any extra effort, set these in a bright warm spot in your house to germinate.  Remember to turn them when they sprout for even growth.  Artificial light is the best way to go for healthier, stockier plants.  Special grow lights are not necessary; the natural fluorescent bulbs and fixtures work just fine and are readily available locally.  Set the height of the fixture so it is adjustable as your seedlings grow, and keep the light to no more than 2” above the plant as it grows.  A simple timer set to 16 hours light and 8 hours dark is ideal.

 

As you watch your plants grow, it is a good idea to keep a small oscillating fan nearby to promote air circulation.  They will grow best at temperatures between 60 to 70 degrees during the day and about 10 degrees cooler at night.  If your “babies” are outgrowing their shallow containers, transplant them gently, using the same potting mix used for germination.  Start giving them a weak, all-purpose fertilizer at only ¼ the strength recommended, and remember to water from the bottom.

 

When planting time comes, it is time to “harden off” your plants so they are slowly able to adjust to the outside world.  Quit fertilizing and cut back on the amount of water for about a week ahead of time.  Set plants in a sheltered spot outside for ½ day or so when temperatures are above 50 degrees.  For about another week, constantly increase the amount of time outdoors and light exposure, and remember to keep them watered to avoid drying out.  That’s it!  Now you are ready to set them in their permanent homes.  Plant them in the garden on a cloudy, windless day to avoid transplant shock.  Water them in well and give them their vitamins on a regular basis.

 

If you have children around, be sure to include them in the seed-starting project from start to finish.  Children love to be taught that they too can make something grow with their own little hands.  Everyone involved will have a sense of pride and accomplishment watching their “babies” thrive in their new garden homes.  Make your February dreaming a reality, so the next time a friend asks, “Where did you get those gorgeous plants?” you can now say, “I grew them myself!”

 

Dawn Leith

Durham Garden Center

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