Make sure if you feed birds and animals in your backyard, take care to continue to keep the feeders clean and filled with fresh seed. It is harder for them to find food this time of year. Suet is a great high-energy food for your feathered friends, as well. Keep a continuous supply of fresh, unfrozen water nearby for them.
Don't forget to water periodically your trees and shrubs, especially new plantings. Check for water needs, any plant in a container on a regular basis to keep from freeze-drying.
Prune only dead or damaged branches and limbs of trees. Leave ornamental trees unpruned to keep their natural shape, except for water sprouts. Do not prune bleeder trees such as maples, birch and dogwoods. DO prune fruit trees for best fruit production.
STOP crape myrtle abuse! DO NOT hard prune crape myrtles! Hard pruning will not make them flower better, it just makes the tree weak and stressed. It creates ugly "knuckles" and weak whips on the tree. I have seen many of them die because of this treatment. Large crape myrtles are trees, not prunable shrubs. This is an old myth and must be eradicated! Large crape myrtles come in sizes from 10 to 25 foot tree forms down to 2 to 3 foot tall shrub forms. Plant crape myrtles that will have a mature size that fits with your landscape plan. Don't plant one that will become 20 feet and try to keep it at 5 feet.
Dormant spray deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs if the weather is not below freezing. This will kill pest eggs, scale and fungal spores before they pose a threat and hatch when the weather warms up.
Take care of your houseplants by giving them a bath in the shower to rinse off dust and possible insects. Spray with a little insecticidal soap or year-round oil spray. Give a little extra humidity if possible with a humidifier or set around pebble trays with water in them. Group them together to share the surrounding humidity. Winter forced heat dries them out and they are more susceptible to spider mite infestation now. Remember not to over water or fertilize now since they are semi-dormant.
Alkaline soil loving plants could use a boost from fireplace ashes.
Animal damage occurs year-round. Continue spraying deer and other animal repellents if you do so.
Force bulbs indoors such as paperwhite narcissus, hyacinths and tulips.
Check outdoor plants to see if any have been damaged by cold or forced up out of the ground. Bulbs may have sprouted if there was much warm weather. A little extra mulch will help them continue to overwinter and protect them.
General cleanup of the garden, and pick up broken branches and debris.
Yes, there are still plenty of tasks to do in February, including planning a nice Valentine’s Day!
Make sure if you feed birds and animals in your backyard, take care to continue to keep the feeders clean and filled with fresh seed. It is harder for them to find food this time of year. Suet is a great high-energy food for your feathered friends, as well. Keep a continuous supply of fresh, unfrozen water nearby for them.
Trim last year’s growth of ornamental grasses at the end of the month to ready them for new growth.
Prune and shape evergreen shrubs such as ligustrum, hollies, boxwood, etc. in late Feb. Do not prune over 1/3 of the bush at a time, for the health of the plant.
At the end of the month, prune summer flowering shrubs such as butterfly bush, althea, abelia and rose bushes. Spray roses with lime sulfur spray to help fungal issues in the growing season. Prune back deciduous vines if needed. Prune camellias and other early flowering shrubs only when they are finished blooming.
Double-check your houseplants for insect infestation and root rot from overwatering in winter. If you see fungus gnats, this means the plant has been getting overwatered. Use oil spray or insecticidal soap on the soil and let the plant dry out completely to help kill the gnats. If you are able, transplant the plant into new sterile, fresh potting soil and sterilize the pot. If you must fertilize, use a very weak solution this time of year. Dust plants and give some humidity if possible.
Make plans on paper for new garden beds and the wish lists of plants you are wanting for spring planting, as well as vegetable garden plans. Leaf through catalogs and magazines for great ideas. Start vegetable and flower seeds indoors at the end of the month.
Rake old mulch and debris and dispose of or place in compost pile. This will also expose insect eggs to cold weather and hungry animals.
It is still a great time to plant new plants and transplant and divide older ones, before they break dormancy. Make sure to water in well after planting.
Sharpen and clean garden tools. Make inventory of tools you may need to buy new. Get rid of broken ones.
Bring in forsythia branches for indoor forcing.
If the ground is not too soggy and weather permits, till the vegetable garden to break up clods and expose weed seeds and insects to cold.
Do not forget to water container plants, as well as new plantings in the ground!
March Garden To-Do List:
Fertilize shrubs and trees according to type. Evergreens, conifers, camellias, dogwoods and azaleas need acid-loving fertilizer. All-purpose fertilizer for other trees and shrubs.
Pull mulch back from bulbs that are getting ready to flower. Fertilize with bone meal the ones that are done blooming.
If you have not done so by the end of February, now’s the time for lawn maintenance. Your lawn will greatly benefit from a good dose of lime, especially in acid clay soils in the south. Fertilize and weed pre-emergent should be done late February to early March. If you are going to re-seed your lawn, use pre-emergent in February and wait to seed until April.
Moving and transplanting perennials, trees and shrubs can be done, if they haven’t broken dormancy yet.
Feed and hard-prune roses, and summer-blooming shrubs if not done so yet. Prune spring-blooming shrubs only if done flowering.
Amend your gardens with fresh compost and manure. Top dress existing plants and trees.
Plant lettuces, cabbage, collards, and cauliflower, sow carrot and radish seeds. Plant potato and onion sets. Plant perennial vegetables such as asparagus and horseradish.
If not done so, take inventory of garden tools and supplies. Organize tools and chemicals. Store shelves are freshly stocked, so purchase new supplies and fresh amendments or fertilizers now to avoid the spring rush at the store.
Repair fences, garden art and trellises, etc. now before plants grow in the way.
Weed by hand pulling and/or use pre-emergent in your flowerbeds now before weeds take over later.
Prune and clean houseplants now and add fertilizer. Keep them turned frequently toward the best light. Repot houseplants now if necessary in fresh, sterile potting soil.
End of the month plant summer-flowering bulbs such as iris, lilies, dahlias.
Frost-free date for our area is April 17th. Summer vegetable plants and summer annual bedding plants like it HOT and need warm soil to grow. Do not plant these too early, they will be small and tender and may die in the cold ground or chilly nights. If you have bought some of these already, keep them outside during the day in their pots, bring them inside at night, and keep an eye on the weather. Of course, by now, you will have prepared your garden bed to be ready for your new little seedlings…
Now is an excellent time to plant more shrubs and trees. Remember to water them well during spring and summer to get them established through their first year. Less-frequent deep waterings are always best, not short, frequent ones.
Clean up and deadhead browning bulb foliage and fertilize with bone meal the bulbs that have finished blooming. Do not cut green leaves, as they provide food for the bulb for next year.
Prune spring-blooming shrubs now, if needed, when they are finished blooming. Prune out water sprouts on trees.
If there has been lack of rains lately, give everything a deep drink, as your plants are breaking dormancy now.
Fertilize evergreens, azaleas, dogwoods and other acid-lovers with an appropriate slow-release fertilizer. Also add some extra nitrogen to evergreens to green them up. Fertilize emerging perennials with appropriate granular slow-release fertilizer. Water after fertilizing.
Now is a good time to top-dress all your plants with compost and/or cow manure for better plant health. Rake and compost old mulch if needed and spread new mulch under your plants to keep in water and keep the roots cool when the weather heats up.
Rake and de-thatch your lawn now. Fertilize with a high-nitrogen spring lawn fertilizer and weed preventer. If you are over-seeding your lawn, seed after the fertilizer, but do not use weed preventer, or this will keep grass seed from germinating.
If mowing is needed, remember to mow at 2 ½ to 3 inches, no lower; do not scalp! Your lawn will still look neatly manicured, the grass blades will be able to shade out any weeds, and your lawn will be much healthier! Leave grass clippings to fertilize the lawn. If there are big clumps of clippings, rake these and put into your vegetable garden or compost pile.
Now is a great time to gain ideas from your neighborhood, community or magazines about garden designs and must-have plants, now that everything is green and growing.
Make sure your plants, especially newly planted ones, get adequate water. Our region can get hot and dry very suddenly. Established plants should get at least one inch of water per week. New plantings need extra attention.
Hot weather vegetable plants should be set out now. Make sure the soil is well drained, but rich in organic matter such as well-rotted cow manure and compost. Make sure your seedlings get regular watering. Soaker hoses work great for this. Avoid overhead watering to reduce disease problems. Tomatoes and peppers need calcium and magnesium to avoid blossom end rot and produce properly. Fertilize with slow release fertilizer and additional boost regularly with a water-soluble fertilizer. Do not use lawn 10-10-10 for your vegetable or flower garden unless you till the soil very well. This is not slow release and can be harsh, and may burn your plants.
Now is the month to finish pruning (if needed) your spring-blooming shrubs. Do not wait much longer to prune, as you may sacrifice buds for next spring. If rhododendron need pruning, prune to next whorl of leaves. Prune hedges to the shape you desire, but prune the top a little narrower than the bottom for continued fullness.
For hydrangeas that color, now is the time to work into the soil lime (pink blooms), or aluminum sulfate (blue blooms).
Plant perennials and bedding plant annuals now. Work slow-release fertilizer into the hole when planting.
Continue to put out summer bulbs and tubers, such as cannas, elephant ears, dahlias, gladiolus and lilies. Dig and divide (if needed) spring bulbs such as daffodils and hyacinths.
Set out stakes or hoops for taller and leggier perennials now before the plant gets too big. Do this for vegetable plants also. Tie up the plant as it grows.
Weed and feed applications continue for lawns to avoid summer annual lawn weeds, and another feeding for your grass before summer heat sets in. Remember not to mow at too low a height for the health of your lawn.
Bring your houseplants outside now for the summer in a shady spot. They are tropical and love living in a humid warm environment. Repot them with professional potting (soilless) mix, not garden soil, if needed, spray them and clean them, fertilize well. An all-purpose horticultural oil spray or insecticidal soap will take care of any pests. If they have spider mites, make sure you use oil spray or an insecticide that includes a miticide, as certain sprays do not affect mites.
Prune new growth of evergreen hedges and foundation plantings to keep shape, no more than 1/4 to 1/3 of the growth. Do not prune into old wood. This will not re-generate growth. Only prune blooming shrubs immediately after flowering or you will sacrifice next year’s blooms. Prune out water sprouts from trees.
Pinch growth tips of chrysanthemums to encourage branching, more blooms and promote bushier plants. Continue doing this until mid-July.
Deadhead and pinch perennials and annuals to encourage new blooms and new growth. Continue to fertilize if needed. Water thoroughly new plants before you set them in the garden, then water in well after planting.
Dig and divide spring-blooming perennials after blooming. Continue dividing spring bulbs if needed and if foliage has died back. Continue to plant summer-blooming bulbs if needed.
Now that it is getting hot, check all your container plants at least once a day, for watering needs. Do not let them dry out. Fertilize container plants with liquid fertilizer often, as they use nutrients quicker in a pot and/or mix granular slow-release fertilizer into the soil when planting for continuous feeding.
Check garden carefully for insect or disease issues and treat accordingly. Only selectively treat infected plants. Check roses for black spot. Try not to overhead water plants to avoid disease such as powdery mildew or spot.
Water plants and lawn in early morning, if possible, to avoid evaporation in the heat of the day, and when plants are not yet heat-stressed. You can water in late afternoon or early evening if the plants have time for their foliage to dry out. Never let water sit on plants throughout the night. This could encourage disease. Do not wait to water when plants are wilted already.
Fertilize spring-blooming shrubs with the appropriate fertilizer right after they are done flowering. Azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons need evergreen, acid-loving plant fertilizer.
Check your vegetable garden daily for water needs. Fertilize weekly, as these plants are very heavy feeders, like annual flowers. Keep an eye on vegetable plants for disease and insect infestations. A carbaryl product such as Sevin is safe for vegetable gardens and washes off easily. Only use insect controls if needed. Make sure they are getting full sun. Mulch well with wheat straw or grass clippings to keep roots cool and moist and avoid weeds. Weed vegetable gardens often. Weeds compete with your plants for nutrients and must not be allowed to take over and go to seed. Continue staking and tying tall plants such as tomatoes, cucumbers and beans as they grow.
Change birdbath water or any standing water often to avoid mosquito larvae. Use the biological control Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) in the form of dunks to kill larvae and keep them from breeding. Dunks are useful in rain barrels also. Bt in a dust form controls caterpillars and larvae on plants.
Keep an eye on evergreens such as Leyland cypress and junipers for bagworm. These look like little brown hanging “cones,” but are worms inside and will kill an evergreen if left unchecked. A biological control, Spinosad, controls bagworms and tent caterpillars and comes in a spray form. You will need to do multiple sprayings to control these.
Japanese beetles will arrive by the end of the month. Place beetle traps at the edges of your property to draw the insects away from your garden. Dump out the bags often and use fresh lures to attract them. Some plants are extra-susceptible to beetles and these can be controlled by weekly spraying or dusting with carbaryl product such as Sevin. This is the best product to use for beetles that have found your plants. Carbaryl is very safe and can be used up to the day of harvest on vegetable gardens as well. This is also used as a pet dust and in flea collars for pets. It is not systemic and can be washed off easily.
Your main focus in the hot month of July is making sure your garden gets at least 1 to 2 inches of deep watering per week. Deep watering less often instead of shallow, frequent watering is the key. This kind of watering never reaches the roots of the plant and makes the roots stay shallow and weak. Make sure your containers and outdoor houseplants are getting watered at least once a day, sometimes twice if in full sun. Do not wait until plants wilt to water them. Rain barrels are especially helpful to collect water from showers and storms. You can water many plants with this water and won’t have to run your hose as much, especially if you are on water restrictions!
Prune bleeder trees such as birch, maple, elm and dogwood now, if needed. Proper pruning techniques are required; do not “hat rack” a tree!
If you have blackberries or raspberries, prune wood to the ground that bore fruit, and old canes.
Continue deadheading perennials and annuals for continuous bloom. Do not let go to seed (unless you are wanting to collect seed). Trim dead leaves or stems and keep plants clean and healthy to avoid disease.
If perennials and annuals have finished blooming or are suffering in the heat, give them a trim and fertilize well. Some annuals and perennials will bloom again later in the season if cut back.
Pinch back chrysanthemums until middle to end of July. Don’t pinch after this so they have time to form flower buds for fall.
Dig and divide iris when finished blooming, if needed.
Don’t let weeds get out of hand in the garden. Hand-pull or spray weeds before they go to seed or you will have double the weeds next year! Make sure you get the entire root; even a tiny bit can sprout a new weed.
Fertilize all container plants and houseplants regularly, every week to 10 days with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer.
Check vegetable garden for ripe vegetables and continue to pick these continuously, so the plants will continue to produce. Do not let veggies rot, shrivel or die on the plant. Clean up fallen vegetables and dead or diseased leaves and stems. This can attract disease and insects. Continue to pull weeds and stake up leggy plants. Be diligent in the veggie garden!
Check for Japanese beetles and damage from these insects in your garden and check your traps often. Hand pick insects or spray susceptible plants with carbaryl once a week. Beetles can decimate and skeletonize a plant in no time and also spread disease between plants. Beetles should be nearly gone by the end of the month. Applications of Milky Spore disease in your lawn will kill the grubs that live in your soil.
If you are new to our region of the South, you may have to re-learn your lawncare practices. Do not fertilize your lawn until autumn. Fescue (cool season) grasses will brown in summer and go dormant. If your lawn turns brown, don’t panic, it is not dead! This is normal for fescue lawns. Cool season lawns are green in spring and fall/winter. Warm season lawns, such as zoysia and Bermuda, are green in summer and brown in winter. If you have a fescue lawn and insist that it must be green in summer, you must be able to give it at least 1” deep watering. This will force it to green, but can also be stressful on the grass. Fescue lawns are best left to themselves and will be fine with as little as once a month natural rain. If mowing is needed, make sure you mow on a high setting for the health of the grass and to shade out competing lawn weeds. Do not scalp your lawn!
It’s HOT! Sit in the shade and enjoy the fruits of your labor with many beers (or sweet teas) and salsa made from your garden. Grill some burgers and don’t work too hard!
It is HOT! Your main focus in the hot month of August is making sure your garden gets at least 1 to 2 inches of deep watering per week. Deep watering less often instead of shallow, frequent watering is the key. This kind of watering never reaches the roots of the plant and makes the roots stay shallow and weak.
Make sure your containers and outdoor houseplants are getting watered at least once a day, sometimes twice a day if in full sun. Do not wait until plants wilt to water them!
Continue to change water in birdbaths or containers that do not drain to avoid mosquito larvae and algae.
Identify pests on plants before you spray! The less insecticides in the garden, the more beneficial insects you will have. Your garden will return to a more normal balance, and may take care of itself, if given time. Only spray plants selectively, and only if necessary! Remember, anything ending in –cide, “organic” or otherwise, kills beneficials too!
Scale and mealybug problems do need to be taken care of, as they are some of the hardest insects to eradicate. The best application for these nasties is year-round horticultural oil (on ornamentals only). Proactive use of this oil spray 3 to 4 times a year, especially on shrubs and trees should prevent this, and is also beneficial for water loss through transpiration. DO NOT spray any application in the heat of the day, morning or evening only!
Butterfly larvae need to be identified before spraying flowers and, especially, herbs! You may kill a future butterfly! These cute caterpillars love fennel, parsley, dill, rue, and many flower varieties. If weird-looking bugs decimate your parsley patch, they are probably the swallowtail butterfly larvae. Plant some herbs for yourself, and others for the butterflies.
Continue deadheading perennials and annuals for continuous bloom. Do not let go to seed (unless you are wanting to collect seed). Trim dead leaves or stems and keep plants clean and healthy to avoid disease.
Discontinue pruning evergreens and hedges at the end of the month, except for long “whips” or crossed, rubbing or dead branches. Remember to prune no more than 1/4 to 1/3 at a time. Pruning late encourages new tender growth, which can die in first fall frost.
If perennials and annuals have finished blooming or are suffering in the heat, give them a trim and fertilize well. Some annuals and perennials will bloom again later in the season if cut back.
Don’t let weeds get out of hand in the garden. Hand-pull or spray weeds before they go to seed or you will have double the weeds next year! Make sure you get the entire root; even a tiny bit can sprout a new weed.
Fertilize all container plants and houseplants regularly, every week to 10 days with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer.
Tomato hornworms are the larvae of the beautiful Sphinx moth, although they are not very beautiful if they eat your tomato plants! They feed on plants in the nightshade family, which include tomatoes, peppers, potatoes and belladonna (deadly nightshade). DO NOT kill tomato hornworms if they have white protrusions on them. These are the cocoons of the braconid wasp, which is a beneficial insect (these “wasps” do not sting humans)! The larvae feed on the hornworm and kill it. If you leave these alone, the wasps will reproduce and you will have even more beneficials next year! Pick ripe vegetables continuously, so the plants will continue to produce. Clean up fallen vegetables and dead or diseased leaves and stems. Pull out any spent or diseased vegetable plants and throw away. This can attract disease and insects.
Harvest, can, freeze summer vegetables. Give extra produce to local food banks, friends and family. Don’t let any go to waste!
Continue to check for Japanese beetles and damage from these insects in your garden. Beetles should be nearly gone by now. Trim and dispose of affected leaves and flowers to avoid disease spread by beetles. Applications of Milky Spore disease or grub killer in your lawn will kill the grubs that live in your soil.
Now is a good time to give your garden tools a good cleaning, sharpening and sterilizing, if you have not done so. Sterilize tools in a mild bleach solution or alcohol to avoid spreading disease between plants. Sharpen mower blades if they are making dull or ragged cuts for the health of your lawn.
Do not fertilize your lawn until autumn. Fescue (cool season) grasses will brown in summer and go dormant. If your lawn turns brown, don’t panic, it is not dead! This is normal for fescue lawns. Cool season lawns are green in spring and fall/winter. Warm season lawns, such as zoysia and Bermuda, are green in summer and brown in winter. If you have a fescue lawn and insist that it must be green in summer, you must be able to give it at least 1” deep watering. This will force it to green, but can also be stressful on the grass. Fescue lawns are best left to themselves and will be fine with as little as once a month natural rain. If mowing is needed, make sure you mow on a high setting for the health of the grass and to shade out competing lawn weeds. Do not scalp your lawn!
Don’t forget to continue spraying deer or other critter repellents on a regular basis.
Keep birdfeeders and birdbaths clean with a mild bleach solution and rinse and dry well. Continue to feed the birds, they love you!
Time for another summer cookout…and remember, enjoy your yard!
Clean up spent summer vegetable plants and dispose of. Till or dig areas not in use to prepare for fall vegetable plants. This also exposes insects and their eggs to hungry birds and other critters. Add lime and compost, cow manure if needed. If summer veggies are still producing, can them or freeze extra, give some away to friends. Don’t let them go to waste!
Plant a cover crop of annual rye, clover, vetch, etc. in the vegetable garden if not planting fall veggies. This will fix nitrogen in the soil, help control weeds and erosion, but will also provide “green manure” when turned under in the spring.
Clean up spent summer annuals in containers to prepare them for fresh fall plants, such as pansies. If containers had insect problems such as aphids, throw soil and plants away, clean and sterilize the container, and fill with fresh, sterile soil to break the insect egg cycle from infesting new plants.
Spring blooming bulbs such as daffodils and tulips will be available by the end of the month. Go ahead and purchase these for planting now, in order to receive the healthiest, freshest bulbs and for good selection. Plant them with plenty of bone meal in the hole. It will not hurt them if they sprout some leaves before the frost sets in. Buy some for indoor forcing and place them in the refrigerator for 10-12 weeks to plant for winter bloom.
Now is a great time to purchase perennials and shrubs for fall planting. Plants establish themselves much better in autumn, when they are putting down good root growth. Continue to give new plantings good deep waterings.
Seeds of perennials and cool-weather annuals can be sown now. Pull out spent summer annuals and clean up the area. Pansies and other annuals for fall and winter color will be ready to plant at the end of the month.
Continue to change water in birdbaths or containers that do not drain to avoid mosquito larvae and algae.
Butterfly larvae need to be identified before spraying flowers and, especially, herbs! You may kill a future butterfly! These cute caterpillars love fennel, parsley, dill, rue, and many flower varieties. If weird-looking bugs decimate your parsley patch, they are probably the swallowtail butterfly larvae. Plant some herbs for yourself, and others for the butterflies.
Fertilize perennials in autumn with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer. Potassium and phosphorus are good for root development this time of year. Make sure this is not too high in nitrogen. You do not want tender top growth in the fall.
Fertilize shrubs with an appropriate balanced slow-release fertilizer for fall feeding. Make sure this is low in nitrogen. Established trees usually do not need fertilizer, just a good application of compost or manure, or organic fertilizer.
Sprinkle or spray a weed preventer in your flower and shrub garden, as well as walkways and driveways, to prevent weed seeds from germinating. If you do this a few times a year to be proactive, you can control annual weed problems like a charm!
At the end of September, over-seed, lime fertilize or weed & feed your lawn if needed. Do another winterizing fertilizer application at the end of October or early November. Take a soil test to the county extension office or purchase a kit if you need an analysis done of PH or nutrients. Your existing lawn will start greening up and coming back to life with rains and cooler temperatures. Be sure to sharpen and clean mower blades.
Don’t forget to continue spraying deer or other critter repellents on a regular basis. Especially pansies!
Continue to feed the hummingbirds throughout the month and keep their feeder CLEAN…you may be surprised at how many hummers you see if you leave their feeder up! If you have fall flowers they love that are still blooming, such as pineapple sage, they can stick around into October! Keep birdfeeders and birdbaths clean with a mild bleach solution and rinse and dry well. Continue to feed the birds, they love you! Give all birds a continuous, reliable, clean food source to ready them for migrating for the winter and catch a few on their way through from other areas. The ones that overwinter here will continue to patronize your feeder through the winter also!
Continue to water containers and outdoor houseplants at least once a day, sometimes twice a day if in full sun. It can still be rather hot in September.
Remember; identify pests on plants before you spray! The less insecticides in the garden, the more beneficial insects you will have. Your garden will return to a more normal balance, and may take care of itself, if given time. Only spray plants selectively, and only if necessary! Remember, anything ending in –cide, “organic” or otherwise, kills beneficials too!
Scale and mealybug problems do need to be taken care of, as they are some of the hardest insects to eradicate. The best application for these nasties is year-round horticultural oil. Proactive use of this oil spray 3 to 4 times a year, especially on shrubs and trees should prevent this, and is also beneficial for water loss through transpiration. DO NOT spray any application in the heat of the day, morning or evening only!
Clean up spent summer vegetable plants and weeds and dispose of. Till or dig areas not in use to prepare for fall vegetable plants. Go ahead and plant fall veggies such as lettuce, collards, cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower. Add lime and compost, cow manure if needed. Root crops such as carrots, turnips and onions can be left in the ground and mulched with straw. These can be dug when needed.
Till up the vegetable garden and plant a cover crop of annual rye, clover, vetch, etc. in the vegetable garden if not planting fall veggies. This will fix nitrogen in the soil, help control weeds and erosion, but will also provide “green manure” when turned under in the spring. Raked leaves can be put into the vegetable garden and make great compost next spring!
Pansies need to be planted now for fall through spring color. Ornamental kale and cabbage, as well as cool-weather loving perennials and small shrubs look great in container gardens with pansies. Amend the planting hole or container with slow-release fertilizer, since you many not be able to feed with liquid fertilizer when it is cold. Deadhead pansies for continuous bloom.
Mums are available this month! Purchase early bloomers along with season-extenders (late bloomers) so you will have continuous color through the month. Mums are easy-care perennials, so by all means, plant them in the garden when you are done with them in the containers!
Spring blooming bulbs such as daffodils and tulips are still available. Go ahead and purchase these for planting now, in order to receive the healthiest, freshest bulbs and for good selection. Plant them with plenty of bone meal in the hole. It will not hurt them if they sprout some leaves before the frost sets in. Bulbs look great planted in containers underneath pansies or other winter annuals. They are beautiful in spring peeking out of pots! Buy some for indoor forcing and place them in the refrigerator for 10-12 weeks to plant for winter bloom.
Fall is the best time for planting shrubs and perennials! Plants establish themselves much better in autumn, when they are putting down good root growth. Continue to give new plantings good deep waterings.
Mark deciduous perennials and bulbs with tags so you know where they are living in spring. I have dug up my share of plants in the spring before they broke dormancy, because I forgot where I had put them!
Now is a great time to dig and move shrubs, trees and perennials, as they are going dormant for the season. They will have very minimal transplant shock when moved in the fall.
Fertilize perennials in autumn with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer. Potassium and phosphorus are good for root development this time of year. Make sure this is not too high in nitrogen. You do not want tender top growth in the fall.
Fertilize shrubs and your lawn with an appropriate balanced slow-release fertilizer for fall feeding. Make sure this is low in nitrogen. Established trees usually do not need fertilizer, just a good application of compost or manure, or organic fertilizer.
Bring houseplants inside for the winter when night temperatures will be below 55 degrees. Fertilize again and spray with insecticidal soap or an oil spray to kill insects before they stow away inside your house.
Clean and sharpen garden tools and mower blades if you have not done so. A good quality, well-taken care of garden tool can last a lifetime. Sand mixed with a little oil in a bucket cleans and sharpens tools great! Dip the tool in and out of the bucket a few times and, voila! Now you have a well-cleaned tool protected from rust. Do not leave them outside to rust or let them become dull.
Dig and store tender bulbs or plants, such as begonias, caladiums and tropicals, for the winter. Dahlias, gladiola, amaryllis, cannas and lilies are perennial here and do not have to be brought in. Divide them if necessary.
Don’t forget to continue watering outdoor containers, and make sure they are well drained!
Don’t forget to continue spraying deer or other critter repellents on a regular basis. Especially pansies!
November Garden To-Do List:
Plant spring bulbs such as daffodils, tulips, crocus, alliums and scilla now. Use a bulb fertilizer or bone meal in each hole for good root development. Bulbs also do great in pots by themselves or with pansies for a riot of spring color. These can be planted in the ground in spring when done blooming!
Buy some bulbs for indoor forcing as well. Place these in the refrigerator for 10-12 weeks to give them a “false winter,” then pot them up and keep them in a cool room until they show growth. Move them into a bright, sunny space when ready. Paperwhite narcissus are available now, as well. These are tropical and will not live outside here. These bulbs DO NOT need to be pre-chilled. Pot them up and watch them grow right away!
Fall is the best time to plant trees, shrubs and perennials, and can continue to be planted through the winter. The reason for this is that this time of year, top growth stops and root growth continues throughout winter, since the ground does not usually freeze in our area. Plants will have a better root system established by spring when they are ready to break dormancy. Also, the weather is cooler and less stressful on plants.
Make sure to continue to water plants, especially new plantings or containers, even in winter, to keep them from freeze-drying. A good watering before a hard freeze can save your plants.
If transplanting and dividing needs to be done, this is a great time for it, as top growth is getting ready to go dormant, and plants are working on their root systems. Be sure to use slow-release, organic fertilizer or compost this time of year, not chemical fertilizers to avoid tender new top growth.
Be sure not to hard-prune evergreens now so as to avoid prompting tender young growth, which will die in the cold temperatures. If they need a very light haircut for shape, or dead stems, this is fine. Go ahead and cut back dead top growth of dormant perennials if needed, and dispose or compost debris.
Continue to pick your winter vegetable garden to keep it producing. Add layers of wheat straw to give them a little protection. Rake leaves onto the garden for turning into great compost later!
As shrubs and evergreens become dormant, spray them with a year-round or dormant (heavier) horticultural oil. This will kill any pests and eggs or fungal spores that are overwintering on them, as well as protect them from water loss during the cold, drying winter. Do another spraying again in early spring while still cool outside.
Apply a winterizing, low nitrogen fertilizer to your fescue lawn and lime if needed.
Drain hoses to keep them from freezing and bursting. Use or drain old gas and oil out of power tools so as not to damage the motor.
December Garden To-Do List
Decorate outside window boxes and containers with evergreen boughs, berries, dried pods, and even holiday ornaments to make your home look festive for the holidays.
Plant Paperwhite narcissus bulbs and amaryllis in pots for holiday bloom. Amaryllis can later be planted outside if you wish, they are hardy here. Paperwhite bulbs are tropical, so will not live outside in central NC.
Pansies can continue to be planted outside or in containers if the weather permits. Make sure to fertilize when planting.
If you purchase a live tree for the holidays, do not keep it in the house for more than 10 days or so, as it may dry out. Water it well before you bring it in the house. Check for water regularly, but do not let it sit in water, or dry out. Keep the tree in a cooler room if possible. Plant outside as soon as possible.
Make sure your plants have adequate mulch to prevent root systems from becoming damaged during extreme weather. Be sure not to pile mulch against trunks or on crowns of plants to avoid rot.
Take good care of houseplants now. Do NOT overwater!!! That is the #1 killer of houseplants. Houseplants, like outside plants, are semi-dormant now and do not need extra fertilizer or too much water. Give them a shower of water or sponging periodically to keep dust off leaves and keep pores from becoming clogged. Tropical plants hate dry air, and can be attacked by insects in the dry air, so be sure to place a humidifier near them, or pebble trays with water to raise the humidity. Placing them in a cooler room with low heating can greatly benefit them. Grouping your plants together helps as well, just be sure to watch for insect infestations. If you are able, spray plants with horticultural oil to smother spider mites, mealy bugs and scale, the bane of indoor houseplants!
Trees, shrubs and perennials, and can continue to be planted through the winter. The reason for this is that this time of year, top growth stops and root growth continues throughout winter, since the ground does not usually freeze in our area. Plants will have a better root system established by spring when they are ready to break dormancy. Also, the weather is cooler and less stressful on plants.
Many people neglect to water during winter, thinking plants don’t need it. If the weather is not below freezing, make sure to continue to water plants, especially new plantings or containers, even in winter, to keep them from freeze-drying. A good watering before a hard freeze can save your plants.
If transplanting and dividing needs to be done, this is still a great time for it, as top growth is getting ready to go dormant, and plants are working on their root systems. Be sure to use slow-release, organic fertilizer or compost this time of year, not chemical fertilizers to avoid tender new top growth.
Be sure not to hard-prune evergreens now so as to avoid prompting tender young growth, which will die in the cold temperatures. Go ahead and cut back dead top growth of dormant perennials if needed, and dispose or compost debris.
As shrubs and evergreens become dormant, spray them with a year-round or dormant (heavier) horticultural oil. This will kill any pests and eggs or fungal spores that are overwintering on them, as well as protect them from water loss during the cold, drying winter. Do another spraying again in early spring while still cool outside.
Clean and oil your gardening tools if needed to keep them sharp and disease- and rust-free.
Drain hoses to keep them from freezing and bursting. Use or drain old gas and oil out of power tools so as not to damage the motor.
If it is below freezing, do not walk on a frozen lawn, this could kill it!
Most of all, rest, relax and enjoy your home and family. Please be sure to have a safe and blessed holiday!